Fujifilm FinePix X100For a long time since their last DSLR model, the well-regarded S5 Pro, Fujifilm has been quiet on cameras bigger than its compact point-and-shoot ones. It seemed like they’ve given up on the upper end of the digital camera market but apparently they’ve been working on something. And what a something it turned out to be.

Announced at photography trade show Photokina 2010, Fujifilm’s FinePix X100 has become one of 2011′s most anticipated digital camera. It has handsome old-school styling that harks back to the rectangular two-toned film rangefinders, complete with brushed metal top with engraved labels, metal setting knobs, and the textured black lower-half. Behind the retro exterior lies high technology from Fujifilm’s engineering teams: a fast prime 23mm f/2 lens with optics more sophisticated than usual, 12-megapixel DSLR-size sensor for better image quality and noise limitation, Fujifilm’s EXR image processor, and their unique hybrid Optical/Electronic Viewfinder.

Many review sites have already covered the technical specifications in details, and DPReview has a pretty good hands-on impression article here. I will be writing about my personal experience with a pre-production/sample of this camera.

X100 Sample Unit

The First X100 in the Philippines. Sample only, not for sale.

When pictures and details of the X100 came out, I was one of the many photographers who were smitten with it. I had grown up with film cameras and liked how Fujifilm brought the traditional rangefinder camera into the digital age; this was a camera that I really looked forward to. So I was excited when Fujifilm Philippine distributor YKL Color, Inc. invited local photographers to test-drive the first FinePix X100 to reach the Philippine shores, to be held at the historic and scenic Fort Santiago in Intramuros, Manila on 5 March 2011.

Unfortunately, it was drizzling when I got there last Saturday and so I expected that the testing session would be somewhat limited. Only a few of us made it to the morning testing session because of the rain and bad traffic, and Ariel Tresvalles of YKL Color arrived in a while and finally brought out the X100. It was just as well that we couldn’t go out just yet to start shooting with it, so I spent that time exploring the camera.

First Look (and Touch)
X100 Front View

Clean Front. Slider on the side is focus mode selector. Lever is for switching between optical and electronic VF.

Wow. It looked good in pictures, but it looked even better in person. I had brought along my 60s-era Yashica Electro 35 film rangefinder camera for comparison, and while the X100 was more compact it looked like it was cut out of the same cloth as the Yashica. The machined metal controls on top are reminiscent of the venerated Leica M film cameras used by professionals. The X100′s On/Off Switch is even similar to my Yashica’s shutter button lock switch and it had a threaded hole in the shutter button for a traditional shutter release cable. The only real concession to the digital age on the top of the camera is an “Fn” button near the shutter button. With the appearance of its front and top, the X100 wouldn’t get a second glance if Austin Powers brought it back in time to the middle of the 20th century.

One gets brought back to the present when one see’s the camera’s rear. The X100′s back is dominated by a 2.8″ 460K-pixel rear LCD screen set into the black texturized surface covering the lower part of the exterior. Buttons and controls are set on the side of the screen, and this is easily familiar to anyone who’s used a digital camera. Users of Canon’s G-series camera (and cameras of other brands with a read control dial) will instantly feel at home with the 4-way controller disc with scroll ring. Above the rear dial is a very useful thumb-operated clickable jog switch to change certain settings, similar to the control scheme of Ricoh’s GR-series of prosumer digital compact cameras. The much-talked about Hybrid Optical/Electronic Viewfinder is found on the left side of the rear panel, which is where the optical viewfinder on a traditional film rangefinder would be.

X100 Rear

A neat back (Bonus reflection of my hand).

It became way better when I picked it up, because it just felt so nice. The magnesium-alloy body feels really well-built and there is no flex anywhere. The metal construction adds to the comfortable heft and the X100 feels balanced in the hand. If you are a tactile person who likes the feel of things, this camera certainly won’t disappoint. The precision-machined brushed metal top and metal dials feel good to the touch, the buttons are firm and don’t feel mushy or cheap, and the black textured covering around the camera’s lower part provides hand traction and lends a sense of confidence when the camera is held. There is also a raised grip on the right side of the camera which allows the camera to be used with one hand.

The X100 isn’t a small camera. It’s bigger than chunky compacts like a Canon G12, and is most likely unpocketable, unless you wear really big pants. Like, really, really big pants. But it can probably fit into the leg pockets of cargo pants, if you don’t mind a camera banging around your legs while you walk.

The Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens is an interesting one. According to Fujifilm’s specifications, the lens has 8 elements, which means that it actually has 8 pieces of glass/optics inside a non-zoom prime lens. This is relatively complex for a fixed focal length lens, similar in construction to high-end prime lenses of Canon and Nikon, and it shows that Fujifilm was serious about making this camera a performer. The lens also included an aspherical element to correct aberrations and is EBC coated to minimize flaring and ghosting given the lens’ sophisticated construction.

Fujinon 23mm f/2 Aspherical

Fast Lens for the Fuji Finepix

Fujifilm chose to go with an non-zoom fixed lens instead of the more common zoom lens found in many compact digital and DSLR cameras. This is because they went for a high quality fast prime lens instead of a zoom lens that had flaws like barrel distortion and smaller max aperture. With the X100′s DSLR-sized APS-C image sensor, this lens is the equivalent of 35mm on a 35mm film camera. This focal length is wide enough for most purposes and considerably minimizes the side-stretching distortion found in wider lens.

Behind the glass lies the X100′s brain: the 12-megapixel DSLR-sized image sensor and EXR processor. The APS-C-sized sensor is bigger than the ones found in your average digital compact point-and-shoot cameras, and it is also a bit bigger than the ones found in the Micro Four-Thirds cameras such as the Olympus E-PL2 and Panasonic GF1/GF2. A bigger sensor given a similar megapixel count will have bigger photosites, and this generally results in lesser noise when shooting in high-ISO/low light levels. Fujifilm has built a reputation in film/digital processing, and high-ISO performance for its smaller digital compacts, and their experience in these areas has been distilled into the EXR image processor found in the X100.

Test Drive
X100 Top Plate Controls

Shutter speed and Exposure Compensation controls

Fortunately for us, the rain let up after 15 minutes and that allowed us to go around the park and shoot. We were allotted 30 minutes each to take the X100 out for a spin. When my turn came, the rain had started falling again so I had to go around and shoot. My first minutes with the camera was spent familiarizing myself with the controls.

The On/Off Switch is a switch around the shutter button, so it was easily activated with the right forefinger. Also within reach of that finger is the Fn button which was set to change ISO, this felt very similar to the Canon DSLRs I use. Aperture is set using an aperture control ring around the lens (which goes from f/2 to f/16, with additional “A” setting for automatic aperture selection), which will be familiar to users of film cameras. The Aperture Ring has a small lever to make it easier to adjust without taking your eye off the viewfinder. Shutter speed is set via the biggest control knob on top of the camera (the knob goes from 1/4000 second shutter speed and slower, including a bulb mode and “A” setting for automatic shutter speed selection).

The X100 has a different way of setting shooting modes. There is no Mode or PASM dial to change between P(rogram), A(perture Priority), S(hutter Priority) or M(anual) shooting modes. Switching between PASM modes is actually done with the combination of the X100′s aperture control ring and its shutter control knob. Below is a quick run down of the mode settings:

  • P (Program AE), the camera basically adjusts shutter speed and aperture for you: Set Aperture Ring to “A” and Shutter Speed knob to “A”.
  • A (Aperture Priority/Av), set aperture and the camera selects proper shutter speed for you: Set Aperture Ring to an aperture you want (e.g. f/2) and Shutter Speed knob to “A”.
  • S (Shutter Priority/Tv), set shutter speed and the camera selects proper aperture speed for you: Set Aperture  Ring to “A” and choose a shutter speed with the Shutter Speed knob.
  • M (Manual Control), you choose both shutter speed and aperture: Set Aperture Ring to a particular aperture (e.g. f/2.8) and Shutter Speed knob to a specific shutter speed (e.g. 1/125).
Maximum Aperture

Aperture selection via aperture ring.

I used the Aperture Priority mode most of the time because I wanted to shoot the camera wide open at f/2. Most lenses are soft shot wide open and will improve when closed down by a stop or two, and I wanted to see how this one does.

Switching between focusing modes is done using a slider switch on the side of the camera. One can use Single-Shot Autofocus, Continuous Autofocus and Manual Focus. Autofocus is activated by half-pressing the shutter button until the camera locks focus on the subject. Manual focusing is done using the focusing ring around the lens barrel.

While using manual focus with distance scale was an option, I ended up using autofocus the whole time for two reasons: first, the X100 is a walk-around camera to me and I would like to be able to just shoot it without having to worry about focusing, and second, I only had limited time to shoot in bad weather and I didn’t want to eat up my time doing manual focus.

Autofocus was pretty snappy for general use, and focus lock was almost instantaneous. Even in indoor situations the camera was able to acquire focus lock quite well. The only time that I had trouble with AF hunting for focus was when I used it in Macro shooting mode to shoot flowers, but then again, macro experts would point out the folly of using AF for macro subjects.

Exposure is indicated in a meter inside the view finder, and a dedicated Exposure Compensation (EC) knob sits conveniently beside the Shutter Speed knob on top of the camera. The EC knob is very useful because it allowed me to quickly bump exposure settings to make my image brighter or darker, up to two stops over or under, in 1/3 stop increments. I could lock exposure, and dial in an additional stop of exposure without taking my eye off the scene with it.

Clicking the shutter button was a very smooth affair. The button just slides in and one will hear a very satisfying click as the shutter snaps open and closes. The X100′s shooting sound is distinctly different from a DSLRs because it doesn’t have a mirror slapping up and down everytime it shoots. This also results in less camera shake/vibrations due to mirror slap while shooting, resulting in sharper pictures.

X100 Optical Viewfinder

VF in optical mode, note lens barrel visible in lower-right corner

Traditional rangefinder cameras have optical viewfinders (VF) set on the left side of the camera for focusing and image composition. Fujifilm has brought this optical viewfinder to modern times by coupling the optical VF with a digital heads-up display that can superimpose information such as exposure, camera settings etc into the actual scene you’re looking at (so actual you can even see the lens barrel on the lower right corner). Most digital compact cameras have done away with the optical VF, or have a really tiny one that makes looking through them a pain, so the X100 does well in bringing us a big optical VF. Like traditional rangefinders, what you see through the optical VF is not exactly what the lens and image sensor will see, since the VF is offset to the side, as compared to the DSLRs where what you see in the VF is more-or-less what you’ll get. But then again, the X100 isn’t as bulky or heavy as the DSLRs.

And if you want to see exactly 100% of the scene, then switch the X100′s VF from optical mode into Electronic mode. With the prism-based Hybrid VF engineered by Fujifilm, that same optical VF becomes a brilliant electronic 1.4-megapixel electronic VF. Aside from giving you a 100% view of what the camera is actually seeing, the electronic viewfinder can also make autofocusing better, and you can magnify the view in the VF to see if you have spot-on focus. Setting changes are also reflected using the electronic VF. There is a diopter adjustment dial beside the VF so you can adjust the clarity of the VF, useful if one is wearing glasses. In addition, there is also an eye sensor which detects if your face is against the VF, so that it can turn switch the view from the rear LCD to the VF as needed.

X100 Electronic VF

X100 VF in Electronic mode, 100% coverage.

One can also use the X100 in the typical compact Point-and-Shoot manner, which is to hold it away from your face and compose your scene using the 100% coverage rear LCD screen. Nothing wrong there because the X100 has a nice big LCD screen at the back, but you may be doing yourself a big disservice because using a viewfinder lets you become more intimate with the scene: it’s only you and the subject, and the viewfinder tunnel vision blocks out everything else.

I mentioned earlier that the fixed 23mm (35mm equivalent on full-frame) is wide enough for most purposes. In my 20-minute shooting stint with the X100 I found that it is wide enough to take in street scenes, pictures of big things like buildings (as long as you are at a reasonable distance away). If you want portrait shots of people you’d probably want to go closer, but that wouldn’t help much if you wanted to shoot candid street scenes. On the other hand, I didn’t have to step back much to take in a scene, and in my experience it’s much easier to go closer than to step back farther.

And speaking of stepping forward and back, because the X100 has a fixed lens, you’ll have to do a lot of foot-zooming, or using your feet to get closer to, or farther from, your subject.

X100 High Contrast 100% crop

100% crop of monument backlit against an overexposed sky. No chromatic aberration for the X100.

But what makes this lens impressive is that it is so well-engineered that chromatic aberration (CA) is virtually non-existence in high-contrast situations. In many lenses, CA is present as colored fringing around high-contrast areas. For example, purple fringing can be seen on the edges of a dark object backlit by a bright light source, such as the sun. CA is present in some of my Canon L lenses, and these are lenses that are already highly regarded. With the X100′s 23mm lens, I didn’t see it in my 100% crops that I have.

The X100 has a flash, but it’s small. It’s also mounted directly on top of the lens, which isn’t ideal and could result in the deer-in-the-headlights-look when shooting people with. I recommend not using it, unless it’s absolutely needed (like in really poor lighting indoors). If you want a flash the X100 has a hotshoe that you can put a compatible external flash on.

The X100 also has a 3-stop Neutral Density (ND) filter built into it. This ND filter can cut the amount of light entering the camera and is generally used to take pictures using a longer exposure time at a given aperture. In the case of the X100, it is used to allow shooting the camera wide open at f/2 using shutter speeds lower than what can be done without the ND filter.

Kalesa at Fort Santiago

This could use more contrast. Straight from X100, resized for web.

The rain and the clouds resulted in a dreary morning with little contrast in the scene. The X100 didn’t have “Cloudy” in its White Balance (WB) settings, so I chose the closest one, “Shade”. I shot a scene in using the Shade WB setting, then shot the same scene again using Auto WB. I found out that I couldn’t tell the difference between the two shots (e.g. Auto WB mode chose “Shade” or something similar), so I stuck with Auto White Balance for the rest of the session.

I have no RAW converter capable of opening the X100′s RAW file yet, The pictures I took with it were shot in JPEG straight out of the camera. Sample pictures taken with the X100 have already made their rounds on the internet, and a common observation was that the pictures could use more contrast. I wanted to see this for myself, but with the rainy weather providing low-contrast scenery I am unable to say at this point if the pictures I took were low contrast because of the camera or because of the shooting condition.

X100 Film Simulation Comparison

X100 Film Simulation Comparison. Velvia has punchier colors and contrast. Astia is distinctly more subdued.

However, I have found out that switching Film Simulations modes (basically image rendering presets patterned and named after Fujifilm’s popular negative and slide films) from Provia (standard) to Velvia (vivid) resulted in punchier photos. So if you want well-saturated contrasty photos with the X100, set it to Velvia mode. Or you can add contrast as well as change other parameters in post-process, which one will have to do anyway if one shoots in RAW.

In addition, the X100 has several monochrome (Black and White) simulation modes including: B&W with filters and sepia.

X100 ISO12800 Crop

100% Crop of ISO12800 Image from X100.

Another aspect of the X100 that is sure to be discussed is its performance in high ISO situations. It has a native ISO range of ISO200 to ISO6400, and can be expanded to ISO100 and ISO12800  Under most circumstances, it performs virtually noise free at ISO200-ISO800. A bit of noise becomes visible at ISO1600, and banding starts to creep in at ISO3200. Banding is very visible in ISO6400 and becomes more prominent at ISO12800. However, the noise and banding at even ISO12800 can still be cleaned up via post processing (if one can accept some loss of detail). If final output of an image will be for the web, then noise really won’t be an issue for images coming out of this camera. Decent high ISO performance by the X100 shouldn’t be a surprise considering that Fujifilm’s has years of experience developing compact digital cameras that perform well in low-light. In fact, it seems to me that the X100′s ISO12800 image looks like a pic at ISO3200 from my Canon 40D, which goes to show how far along technology has progressed.

The X100 has video recording and sweep-panorama modes, but I wasn’t able to test these in earnest. Maybe next time if YKL Color allows me to use the camera again.

The Bad
LL and X100

It's expensive. And could use image stabilization.

So far I’ve been painting a very nice picture of the X100. But that it’s not a perfect camera. For one, the menu system is slow. There’s a significant lag every time I change a setting within its menu system, and very noticeable to people coming from DSLRs and premium compact P&S cameras. My other complaint is that the rotating scroll ring at the back is too sensitive. When I am using the 4-way click controller to select menu items, a slight brush against the ring surrounding it would scroll-select something else, and to correct that I would have to go through the slow menu system again just to fix that. Hopefully the production model resolves addresses some of these issues.

The X100 could also use an optical image stabilization system to help reduce camera shake. I have hand tremors and this would really have been helpful to people like me.

There’s also the matter of price. The X100 is anticipated to have a price tag of US$1200 at launch. No Philippine prices have been announced thus far, but I’d expect it to be that or more. That’s a big chunk of money that can buy one a nice mid-range DSLR camera, or a really nice lens from Canon or Nikon. All this money for a 12-mp camera that doesn’t even have zooming lens. I guess one has to bear in mind that this camera is a pioneering product and as with many pioneering products, the prices are quite high when they’re released.

So?
Chain Links

Chain Links. Straight from X100, resized for the web.

To be honest I didn’t see anything really bad to say about the camera, as I was able to pick it up and start shooting. For me, the X100 hits most of the hyped-up expectations about it that we’ve seen in the last couple of months: the fast lens, DSLR sensor and EXR image processor result in great images, very deliberate and well thought-out controls, and the pioneering hybrid viewfinder works really well. It has its share of flaws, yes, but nothing seriously bad that couldn’t be fixed with a firmware fix (bearing in mind that the camera I tested was a sample unit, most likely a pre-production model).

Fujifilm could’ve done worse and have fallen flat on their faces coming with a product that nobody has ever attempted doing, but in the case of the X100 they’ve gone out on a limb and come out with something that’s pretty good and most likely be popular with photographers (as much as the Panasonic Lumix LX-3 was when it first came out).

Is this a camera for you?
Fujifilm FinePix X100

A very handsome camera. You want one too.

The FinePix X100 is touted by Fujifilm to be “The Professional Photographer’s compact digital camera”. To achieve this, a lot of thought has been put into this camera, resulting in one with a high-performance fixed lens that has been purposely designed to match the DSLR-size sensor for pro-level images, very good control layout, decent autofocus and a high degree of portability. Plus, it’s pleasing to touch, feel, hear and use too.

The FinePix X100 is aimed squarely at Leica’s X1, which has the same fixed-lens, DSLR-sized sensor in a small compact body concept and has been out for a few years already. The X100 promises faster autofocus (the Leica X1 was reported to have slow AF) and a hybrid VF for the rangefinder look and feel (the X1 only had the rear LCD for composition), at almost half the price of the Leica. In that sense then the X100 is a bargain by comparison. So if you’re in the market for the Leica X1 (and the Sigma DP cameras), you may want to consider this.

For most professional photographers and advanced enthusiasts, the X100 would be a very good companion to a DSLR for the reason that it can provide DSLR-level images and usability. Coming from a DSLR, the X100 will feel like really light. But at that price point, such a person would have to think really hard if the X100 and its limited lens will be better than getting another DSLR, or a Micro Four-Thirds camera like the Olympus E-P or Panasonic GF ones with interchangeable lenses.

Finally, for the casual user users, is this a good buy? To be honest, US$1200+ is a lot of money for a camera for most of us. Putting that in context, for that money one could buy two or even three premium compact cameras, the Canon G12, Canon S95, Panasonic LX-5, any of which will be excellent for general use. The X100 isn’t for everyone, and is really meant for people who know what they’re getting into. For someone who can appreciate the engineering that went into the X100 and gets pleasure from using it as the well-designed tool that it is, then that money is well worth it. It might help to think of it this way: use the X100 as your everyday camera (which it is great for) for three years, and it’ll cost you P50 per day. That’s less than what some people spend on other things.

As for me, the test drive succeeded for Fujifilm. I now want an X100.

What do you think of the Fujifilm FinePix X100? If you had the cash, would you buy it? Let us know your thoughts in the comments box below!

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Mark II ThumbThree months ago, I was able to acquire a used Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II in very good condition. To a hobbyist who as been using semi-professional DSLRs (40D and 20D), the professional-grade 1Ds Mark II was a strange beast, both familiar and strange. I have written about my initial impression of that camera in a previous blog post, you can read it here.

During that time, I’ve used it as my everyday camera and have used it on photowalks, a running event, a studio shoot and even a couple of weddings. I have become quite comfortable with its controls and have explored its capabilities.

And what a fine camera it is.

The camera feels really solid, like a rock chiseled out into the shape of a camera and holes carved out to accomodate the lens mount, buttons and battery. The smoothly-contoured vertical grip also feels better in the hand than the blockier vertical battery grips one screws into other cameras. The 1Ds Mark II has the one of the highest levels of weathersealing available in a camera, but I wasn’t able to test this out as it never rained when I used this camera. I will just take the word of the real professionals who count on this camera to take awesome pictures even through mud, rain, snow and ocean waves.

1Ds Mark II VF

45 AF Points, and Two Meters on the side. (Picture from Canon)

The viewfinder is very large and very bright compared to one on a DSLR with a smaller sensor. The exposure meter inside the viewfinder is on the right side, and not on the bottom unlike most cameras, and the 1Ds Mark II actually has two meters on the side, one for exposure and the other for a useful feature called Multi-spot metering.

Multi-spot metering is a feature of Canon’s 1-series DSLRs that allows a photographer to take multiple exposure readings of the same scene and then average those readings into an exposure setting that will have the best results. This is very useful in the case of challenging scenes that have a wide disparity between bright and dark areas. The Canon Digital Learning Center has a very good article on Multi-spot metering which can be read here.

Autofocus is spot-on most of the time. I’ve written in the local forums saying that the AF of the 40D is comparable to the 1Ds Mark II’s, but I take that back. I’ve shot with both bodies at a fun run event and observed that while the 40D has a fast AF system that quickly locks on to the runners, the 1Ds Mark II is just as fast and more importantly, more accurate. I noticed that I ended up with more in-focus keepers with the 1Ds Mark II and I attribute that to a more accurate AF system. That or my photography skills have instantaneously improved in that short time, so I’m thinking it’s the 1-series AF system. (Before any of you 40D fans start sending me angry emails about that camera’s AF system, I would like to emphasize that I do use a 40D and don’t think that it has a bad AF system. It’s just that the 1Ds Mark II is noticeably better).

And as I’ve mentioned in my first blog post about this camera, the 45 AF points do wonders for AF accuracy. The outer AF points are mostly accurate too and one is really spoiled for choice with regards to the number of AF points. If one is overwhelmed by the number of selectable AF points, one can always select them in groups (this is enabled via Custom Function).

Puppy

Never seen a shot like this from my 40D.

The 16-megapixel full-frame sensor may have since been overtaken by newer cameras like the 21-megapixel 5D Mark II and even the 18-megapixel 550D and 7D, but it is still impressive. The first time I viewed pictures taken with the 1Ds Mark II on my computer, I couldn’t believe that I had taken those images. There was a different look to my pictures (In retrospect this might have been the effect of a full-frame sensor having a shallower depth-of-field than a crop sensor given the same cropping), and the detail captured was frankly amazing to someone who’s been shooting with a 40D. In fact, the sensor is so good that it shows the flaws of excellent lenses like Canon’s top standard zoom, the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM, which exhibits chromatic aberration (purple fringing) in high contrast areas of the image.

Bushmon

ISO800 at 1/30 sec. Not bad for an old camera.

High ISO performance is actually decent given that this is a camera with a maximum ISO speed of 1600, expandable to 3200. I’ve shot indoor events and found that shots taken at ISO800 and ISO1600 were very much useable. There is a bit of noise at those levels, but these can be easily removed with post-processing. For shots re-sized for the web, noise isn’t noticeable even if noise reduction was applied in post. I was shooting at those ISO speeds with confidence.

The battery life is stupendous. I’ve never really run its battery dry, even after more than a thousand shots with a considerable amount of chimping (reviewing pictures on the rear LCD) and deleting stuff. I always carry a charged extra battery in my bag, but I’ve never had to change batteries on the field with this camera.

I realized that I may be portraying the 1Ds Mark II as the perfect camera. Which it isn’t.

1Ds Mark II on Tripod

Heavy Metal

My first complaint will be the heft. It is heavy camera on its own, but once you add a good lens (a 24-70 lens isn’t a lightweight) it becomes heavier. And since the 1Ds Mark II doesn’t have a built-in flash, you’d have to put an external flash on the hotshoe, which makes it even heavier. This setup can be quite a load, so much so that if I shot the camera for a whole day, my hands would ache for a couple of days afterward. Having it hang around your neck or shoulder isn’t a joke, your upper body will certainly feel the weight. A neoprene stretchable neck/shoulder strap helps, and a handstrap like Canon’s E-1 strap is really a must, in my experience.

Along with a heavy NiMH battery, the 1Ds Mark II comes with a battery charger that is as big as a kid’s shoe box. It’s not heavy, but it is bulky and will take up luggage space when traveling.

1Ds Mark II Rear LCD

Even the lowliest current Canon DSLR has a bigger LCD.

The rear LCD screen was small, had a narrow viewing angle, and not conducive to reviewing pictures. To go through different pictures I had to press down a button while rotating a dial. Reviewing pictures is a bit slow too, there is a noticeable lag when reviewing pictures and it seems that the camera’s processor cannot read the big image files quickly; this can get pretty annoying when you need to quickly check a shot. When viewing magnified pictures, I had to scroll up/down and left/right using the two dials on the 1Ds Mark II.

The two-handed way of changing the 1Ds Mark II’s settings was something that I got used to, to the point that I was using the two-handed operation on my 40D and wondered why the settings wouldn’t change. But to be honest I found myself wishing for the ease of use that I had with my 40D. Even the 20D allowed me to change settings faster via the multi-directional joystick at the back.

And as much as I like its fast AF, it’s quite cumbersome to select AF points because you can’t select one directly; to change AF points, one has to use a control dial to scroll left/right across a row of AF points, then up/down using the other dial. By comparison, on a 40D you just use the small joystick to go directly to the AF point you want. And since I’ve used the 1Ds Mark II in events, I’ve found that the camera’s AF will hunt in low-light situations.

Compared to newer DSLRs, the 1Ds Mark II shows its age. Even the lowest-end DSLRs in the market now have bigger and more brilliant rear LCDs and are easier to use. The price of a used one isn’t exactly cheap too; As much as the price has gone down from its original MSRP of US$8,000, a used 1Ds Mark II commands the same price as a brand new Canon 7D.

Canon EOS 1Ds Mk II and RRS L-Plate

Old, but still excellence exemplified.

But when one actually picks up the camera, peers into its big and bright viewfinder, sees the AF lock confirmation dot come on instantly, and hear the shutter click in the way only a 1-series camera can, one immediately forgets about all the bad things about this camera. I can try to explain it in words, but there really is a certain pleasure and satisfaction in shooting a 1-series body that may only be understood if one has shot with one.

In the past several weeks, I have noticed that more and more local photographers have acquired used 1-series bodies given that they have become affordable to more people. A number of them have contacted me and told me that they’re loving their new-to-them old 1-series cameras and would be hard-pressed to go back to a non-1-series camera, even if it was a newer and more modern one.

I’m inclined to agree.

Have you used a professional-grade DSLR body? How was it? Have questions about the 1Ds Mark II? Have your say in the comments section below!

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Canon Kiss X50 (1100D) RedThis week, Canon announced at the Japanese CP+ photography trade fair two new EOS cameras, two new external flash units for its DSLRs, four DSLR lenses, and five compact digital cameras.

The Canon EOS 600D  and 1100D DSLR cameras were announced, and they will be replacing the 550D and 1000D in the current lineup, respectively.

Canon EOS 600D

Canon EOS 600D

The 600D (Rebel T3i in the US market, Kiss X5 in Japan) uses the same 18-megapixel sensor found in the 550D, and adds a 3-inch articulated rear LCD screen and wireless external flash control capability. It also comes with the DIGIC IV image processor, 3.7 frames per second (FPS) shooting speed, 9-point AF system, the 63-zone iFCL metering system from the higher-spec 7D and high-definition 1080p video recording. The 600D also comes with the Basic+ and Creative Auto features for adding image-effects in camera. Read the 600D preview by Digital Photography Review here.

Red and Black Canon EOS 1100D/Kiss X50

Japan gets a red 1100D. Rest of us gets black.

The 12-megapixel 1100D (Rebel T3 in the US market, Kiss X50 in Japan) is the smallest and lightest camera in Canon’s EOS line up and improves upon the 1000D with DIGIC 4 processing power, 9 AF points, 63-zone iFCL metering system from the 7D and 600D, ISO speeds up to 6400, and 720p HD video recording. The 1100D comes with Basic+ and Creative Auto features, like the 600D and 60D. Interestingly, the Japanese-market 1100D/X50 also comes in a red color, the first Canon DSLR to be in that shade. Read the 1100D preview by Digital Photography Review here.

EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II

New kit lens for Canon DSLRs

To go with these new entry-level DSLRs, the new EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens has also been introduced. An affordable image-stabilized lens with a general-purposes focal length range ideal for those starting out in photography. Based on the spec sheet, the new lens is identical to the original version with features like a 4-stop image stablization, circular aperture diaphragm for smoother background blur (bokeh) and an aspherical lens element with Super Spectra coating that results in sharp high-contrast pictures with less ghosting and flaring. The product picture does show what seems to be a body texture similar to Canon’s L lenses, so the change seems to be more cosmetic in nature, unless Canon has made internal changes. This new version of the lens will replace the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS that has been bundled with Canon’s DSLRs for the past few years. Read more about it at the Canon Europe site here.

For the more advanced or professional-level Canon DSLR camera users, 3 new lenses were announced.

EF 500mm f/4L IS USM II and EF 600mm f/4L IS USM II

500mm II on top, 600mm II below. Not to scale.

The supertelephoto-class EF 500mm f/4L IS USM and EF 600mm f/4L IS USM lenses received their much-awaited respective “II” versions. Both the EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM and EF 600mm f/4L IS II USM feature redesigned optical elements with fluorite components for sharp and contrasty elements, and have improved Ultrasonic Motor (USM) autofocus performance. The Image-Stabilization (IS) systems in the lenses have also been improved and now have a third mode, which activates IS only on exposure, helping the photographer track fast-moving subjects better. Both weather-proofed lenses are made up of magnesium alloy and titanium components and are considerably lighter than their predecessors, much to the relief of wildlife and sports photographers who have to carry them around. Read more about the EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM here, and the EF 600mm f/4L IS II USM here. Both links go to the Canon USA website.

EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM

EF 200-400mm x 1.4 = 280-560mm lens.

The most intriguing of the new lenses announced was the EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x. A supertelephoto zoom lens with the 200-400mm focal length range and a constant maximum aperture of f/4 is already very notable on its own and the addition of an image stabilization (IS) system will make this a very useful and desirable lens. But Canon didn’t stop there, and built a 1.4x teleconverter (an “Extender” in Canon nomenclature, usually an accessory sold separately) into the lens, which when used, turns this lens into a 280mm-560mm lens with a constant aperture of f/5.6. This lens is scheduled to be launched this year, and will be very much anticipated by many photographers amateurs and professionals alike. Read more about this lens at Digital Photography Review here.

Additionally, Canon also introduced two new Speedlite external flash units for the EOS camera line, the 320EX and the 270EX II.

Speedlites 270EX II and 320EX

Speedlites 270EX II (L) and 320EX (R)

The 320EX is used in still photography as a normal flash with a Guide Number of 32 at ISO100. It also has a tilt-and-swivel head for bouncing flash and can be controlled wirelessly. It looks to be a capable external flash but the kicker is that it has a built-in LED video light. This continuous light helps illuminate the subject in low-light subjects when using a DSLR for video capture. When shooting a movie with a 600D or 1100D in Auto Light mode, the LED light turns on and off automatically depending on the lighting present.

The 270EX II is a refresh of Canon’s 270EX Speedlite, the latter of which is a very compact and basic external flash which had a head that can be tilted up to bounce its light output. The 270EX II improves upon the old one by being capable of acting as a wireless slave, and by having flash settings settable in a camera’s menu.

The 320EX and the 270EX II also share a new Canon Speedlite feature called Remote Release, which allows a photographer to trigger his camera using the flash. This will save a photographer the time and effort of having to walk back to the camera after setting up lighting. Canon Japan MSRP for a 320EX is JPY25,000 and JPY17,000 for the 27oEX II, both slated for an April 2011 release. Read more about the 270EX II here, the 320EX here. Both links go to the Canon USA website.

Don’t want to carry heavy cameras, lenses and flashes? Canon also announced no less than five new compact digital cameras in IXUS and Powershot SX lines. Read more about the upcoming ultra-compact IXUS 115 HS, the premium ultra-compact IXUS 220 HS, the 14x superzoom compacts SX220 HS and the GPS-enabled SX230 HS, and the manual-control premium compact IXUS 310 HS. These links go to Digital Photography Review.

In summary, it’s been a pretty good round of announcements from Canon with something for everyone: the point-and-shoot user, the amateur DSLR user, DSLR videographers, and professional photographers. A good start to the year in terms of gear we can look forward to.

What do you think about Canon’s new offerings? Have your say in the comments section below!

Photos courtesy of the Canon Europe and Canon Japan website.

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Roughly a week to go and still don’t have something to put under your favorite photographer’s tree? Want to spend more than P10,000 for that person(s), or yourself?

Let The Learning Lensman help you (spend more money)!

In Part One of The Learning Lensman’s Gift Guide for Christmas this year, the gift suggestions ranged from below P500 up to P10,000. Admittedly those are still on the lower end of the photography spending spectrum.

Lower end? P10,000 is still considered “LOWER END”?

Yessir.  There are more expensive ways to gift the favorite photographer(s) in your life.

Read on to find out what’s available out there, and links are provided per item for more information.

P10,001 to P25,000
  • Fujifilm Finepix XP10: A 12-megapixel compact digital camera that’s built to resist water (submerged up to 3m for a limited time), shock, dust and freezing. Has a 5x Fujinon lens, and has built-in picture editing features so you can resize, make adjustments (brightness and contrast) within the camera, and instantly upload the pictures when connected to a computer with internet connection. Great for those who want a life-proof outdoors camera for a relatively low price. P10,260 with 2GB SD Card from Fujifilm Digital Imaging Megamall.
  • Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-f/5.6 IS Lens: Canon’s entry-level image-stabilized telephoto zoom lens for 1.6x crop DSLR bodies (all Canon EOS bodies except for the 5D and 1D cameras). Ideal complement to the 18-55 kit lens that comes with most Canon DSLRs. P10,500 from Mayer.
  • Nikon SB-600 AF Speedlight Flash: Nikon’s mid-level flash unit. Great value, and with a flash head that can swivel and tilt for bouncing the light off other surfaces. It’s slated to be replaced by the SB-700 soon but it’s still a good first external flash for Nikon users. P11,800 from Mayer with CDSC (Official Nikon Distributor) warranty.
  • Canon Pixma iX4000 Printer: An inkjet printer that can print up to A3+ paper size (13″ x 19″). Has 4800 x 1200 dpi print resolution and 4 individual ChromaLife100 inks. Great for those who want to print their special photos in larger sizes at home. P12,695 from Silicon Valley Megamall.
  • Infrared (IR) Conversion for DSLR: Infrared photographs have a very surreal quality about them, and are usually taken with infrared filters that are screwed into a DSLR lens. These are taken using long exposures, and you have to pre-focus and meter before you put the filter on. With the IR conversion, a DSLR camera is converted to shoot in infrared and one can use it the same way a normal DSLR would be used. The IR conversion is permanent, so one should have it done on a spare DSLR, unless that person really loves infrared photos. 17,000 from Filters Exchange (not including cost of camera).
  • Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM Lens: A step up from the budget EF 50mm f/1.8 lens, the f/1.4 version has Ultrasonic Motor autofocus for more accurate and quieter focusing, more robust construction, and more aperture blades for smoother background blur. Ideal for those who shoot indoors with available light, or those who like a nicer background blur effect. P17,500 from Mayer Photo.
  • Pentax Optio w90 Digital Compact: A tough 12-megapixel with 5x camera that can go down to 6m under water. Everything about it screams RUGGED, and its strap is a carabiner like what mountaineers use to secure ropes. Very good companion for those who are adventurous. P18,990 with case and 4GB SD card, from Camerahaus Megamall.
  • PocketWizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Wireless Flash Trigger Set: These are used to pop external flashes by remote control (you’ve probably seen this at work during weddings, where the photographer has this thing with antennas on top of his camera, and an assistant holding his flash off to his side). The MiniTT1 is a radio transmitter you put on a DSLR’s flash hotshoe, while the FlexTT5 goes under the flash unit itself (FlexTT5 can also act as a transmitter). In addition, the PocketWizard system can read the DSLR’s readings and make adjustments automatically, and also allows one to use flashes at shutter speeds much higher than the usual. There are more affordable radio trigger sets out there from China and Korea, but the PocketWizard ones are just more dependable and can be used over a longer working distance. Ideal for photographers who need a radio trigger system that they can depend on for their off-camera flash/strobe work.  P21,000 for the Canon version from Aperture Trading.
  • Canon Speedlite 580Ex II Flash: Canon’s top-of-the-line flash. Powerful, faster-cycling, a flash head that can tilt and swivel, comes with a bounce card to put catchlights in subjects’ eyes. It is also rugged, weatherproof and can be used as a wireless commander for other Canon flashes for off-camera flash use. Ideal for photographers who need a dependable flash in all situations. P21,500 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Tamron SP 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF] Lens: This is a “standard zoom” lens for Canon and Nikon digital cameras with cropped sensor, has very good image quality and has a large maximum aperture that means that it is usable for indoor available light shooting. Its focal length range of 17-55mm means that this is an upgrade for the 18-55mm kit lens that typically comes with cameras, and it is a very good alternative to the similar, but much pricier, offerings from Canon or Nikon. P21,990 for either Canon or Nikon mount, from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Olympus µ TOUGH-8010 Digital Compact: One of the latest in the line of venerable Olympus TOUGH compact cameras, this water-, dust-, freeze- and shock-resistant compact digital cameras packs 14 megapixels and 5x optical zoom in a  slim and stylish body. Features improved double waterproofing that lets it go up to 10 meters under water. P22,995 with 4GB Card, Speedo watch and Olympus Lenspen from SM Department Store.
  • Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5: A worthy successor of the excellent Panasonic LX3, and  regarded as one of the best point-and-shoot compact digital cameras of the year with excellent ambient light shooting capability. It has a 10-megapixel sensor (less megapixels in a small sensor = better low light performance and image quality), manual controls, optical image stabilization and a lens designed by Leica of Germany (yes, the same Leica that sells a P500,000 lens). It is ideal for those who want a great compact camera that has manual controls and very good image quality, or those who want a less-bulkier alternative to their DSLRs. P23,000 from Mayer with 1 year service warranty and 6 months on parts.
  • Canon EOS 1000D with 18-55mm IS Lens Kit: Canon’s entry-level 10.1 megapixel 1.6x crop DSLR camera. With Live View and will work with all Canon EF lenses. A great way to get into DSLR photography if on a budget. P24,500 at Mayer with 3-year Canon Philippines warranty.
  • Tokina AT-X M100 f/2.8 Pro Macro: This 100mm macro lens can do 1:1 life-sized pictures of small things, and has received good reviews. Ideal for photographers who love shooting small creepy-crawlies or fine details, and is also a very good lens for portraits. Competitively priced against the Canon or Nikon counterparts. P24,990 for either Canon or Nikon mount, from Pixel Pro Megamall.
P25,000-P50,000
  • Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG Lens: Sigma’s equivalent of the Canon and Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. While not up to the level of the Canon and Nikon offerings in terms of image and build quality, it is very good for the price one pays for it. It is a very good fast zoom lens for those on a budget. P25,500 from JT Photoworld. HSM version (faster and more accurate autofocus) is P43,000.
  • Canon S95 Digital Compact Camera: The 10-megapixel S95 is Canon’s latest premium compact and has the features that put it above your average point-and-shoot: a fast f/2.0 lens (big maximum lens opening allows more light), very good low-light performance, optical image stabilization, RAW image files, and full manual control. All these in an elegant slim-profile (probably the most compact among its direct competitors). Ideal for those who want a pocketable camera with full creative control, and it can also be a good companion for a DSLR. P27,950 at SM Appliance Center.
  • Canon PIXMA Pro9000 Mark II Printer: One of Canon’s professional-grade inkjet printers, the Pro9000 Mk II can print A3+ size (13″ x 19″) prints at 4800 x 2400 dpi resolution. It has excellent color reproduction and long-lasting prints, made possible by 8 different ChromaLife100+ ink colors in individual cartridges. This is a very good printer for those who want to print out their special photographs in bigger sizes. P29,995 from Silicon Valley Megamall.
  • Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR II DX Lens: This is an 11x superzoom lens with the Vibration Reduction mechanism designed for Nikon’s DX-format (1.5x crop) DSLR cameras. It is a very versatile lens and ideal for Nikon users who want to take only one lens on their travels. P32,990 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Nikon D3100 with 18-55mm VR Lens Kit: Nikon’s new 14-megapixel entry-level 1.5x crop DSLR, 11-point AF, 3 frames-per-second shooting, and now with 1080p high-definition video. Does not have a built-in lens motor, so only motor-equipped Nikon lenses will autofocus on this one. A great way to get into photography with the Nikon brand. P32,000 from Mayer Photo.
  • Olympus E-PL1 with 14-45mm Lens Kit: The 12-megapixel E-PL1 is Olympus’ third entry in the Micro Four Thirds 2x crop format, and belongs to the EVIL (Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens) category of cameras by virtue of having a DSLR-sized image sensor in a smaller body (made possible by eliminating the mirror box/optical viewfinder of a traditional DSLR. It has DSLR-quality images, built-in image stabilization (all lens you attach to it are automatically stabilized to reduce blurring), pretty good high ISO performance and can do 720p video. It is actually more of a compact camera with a DSLR-sized sensor rather than a shrunken DSLR, because its manual controls are relatively simplified. The E-PL1 is a good alternative to traditional and bulkier DSLRs, and can even be used as a back-up camera by those already with DSLRs. P33,995 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM Lens: As one of Canon’s red-ringed L lenses (L for Luxury, Canon’s designation for its high-end lenses) lens is very sharp, has great color rendition, a max aperture of f/4 at all focal lengths, robust construction and is weather-sealed against the elements. Its focal range on both 1.6 crop cameras and full-frame cameras are on the wide side, and this lens is a great walk-around lens. It also happens to be one of the more affordable L lenses available . Very good upgrade for those with the Canon 18-55mm kit lens, or as an ultrawide angle lens for a full-frame camera. P34,500 from Mayer Photo.
  • Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens: The best ultrawide angle (UWA) lens for Canon’s 1.6x crop DSLR bodies (all Canon EOS bodies except for the 5D and 1D cameras). Has professional-grade optics and is very sharp. Lens barrel is made of plastic, but it’s tough plastic and the lens feels quite solid. Ideal for those who like to take landscape shots and/or those who want to take it all into the frame. P36,120 from JT Photoworld.
  • Sony NEX-5 with 18-55 Lens Kit: The higher-end model of Sony’s EVIL cameras, the 14-megapixel NEX-5 has a DSLR-sized 1.5x crop image sensor in a very compact body, and offers the flexibility of interchangeable lenses. It can also do full HD video recording. A very good camera for people who are moving up from point-and-shoot cameras, or even as a back-up camera to a DSLR. P37,999 from Sony Shop Megamall.
  • Canon EOS 550D with 18-55mm IS Lens Kit: Canon’s latest upper entry-level 1.6x crop camera with 18-megapixel resolution, 3.7 frames-per-second shooting, 63-zone dual-layer metering system and 1080p high-definition video. Aside from being a very good DSLR, it’s also the choice HD-DSLR of many professional videographers. Excellent first DSLR, or as a backup to a higher-end DSLR. P41,500 from Mayer Photo.
  • Pentax K-x with Dual Lens Kit: This 12-megapixel entry-level 1.5x crop DSLR from Pentax is actually equipped with features normally found on higher-spec’d DSLRs, such as 11-point autofocus, 4.7 Frames Per Second shooting, and built-in Shake Reduction (all lenses you put on it are image-stabilized to reduce blurring). It has a small compact body and even comes in 12 different colors (Black, Navy Blue, Red and White available locally)! With the included 18-55mm and 55-300mm lenses in the dual kit, one can immediately start shooting almost anything. It is also made in the Philippines, so you’re supporting the local economy if you get it. Ideal for first DSLR, and as a compact digital body for those with old Pentax K-mount lenses. P46,990 from CameraHaus Megamall.
  • Canon EOS 60D DSLR Body Only: Canon’s latest advanced amateur level 1.6x crop camera. 18 megapixels, 5.3 Frames Per Second shooting speed, 1080p high-definition video, articulated screen. A great upgrade for those already using Canon’s entry-level DSLRs and have at least one lens, or you can pair this body with a lens of your choice. P49,000 with official Canon Philippines 3-year warranty, from Mayer Photo.
P50,001-P100,000
  • Sony Alpha A33 with Dual Lens Kit: The 14-megapixel Alpha A33 is one of Sony’s DSLR 1.5x mid-range cameras, with 15 autofocus points, Live View, 7 Frames Per Second shooting speed, Full HD movie recording, built-in SteadyShot Inside (all lenses you attach become image-stabilized to reduce blurring). It is also one of the two innovative Sony Alpha models that are equipped with a translucent fixed mirror, resulting in a more compact size than traditional DSLRs and the ability to smoothly autofocus in movie mode. It has very good picture and movie quality, and the included 18-55mm and 55-200 lens will allow one to shoot a great variety of subjects. A very good camera, ideal for those who want to start out in DSLRs and may want something different. P51,999 from Sony Shop Megamall.
  • Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM: Canon’s fastest standard zoom with excellent image quality in terms of sharpness and color saturation. Big maximum aperture at f/2.8 means that this is usable for indoor available-light using. Professional grade and weather-sealed too. Very good upgrade from the kit lens, but might be a bit too long for use on 1.6x crop cameras. Ideal for those looking for a high-quality general-purpose lens for their Canon. P60,000 from Mayer Photo.
  • Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM: One of Canon’s sharpest, and image-stabilized, 70-200mm telephoto zoom lens. Ideal for those who need that focal length and don’t need to shoot at f/2.8 aperture. Professional grade and weather-sealed too. Ideal for Canon photographers who snipe from a distance. P54,000 from Mayer Photo.
  • Canon EOS 7D DSLR Body Only: Canon’s most advanced prosumer 1.6x crop DSLR. 18-megapixels image sensor, 8 Frames Per Second shooting, 63-zone metering system, very fast autofocus system and very good high ISO performance (for low-light shooting). It has a rugged and weather-sealed body, and can shoot high-definition 1080p video in 24 FPS, 25 FPS and 30FPS formats. Ideal for those moving up from entry-level Canon cameras, those who need to shoot in fast-paced situations like events and sports or professional videographers who need a tested HD-DSLR for work. Makes a nice companion to full-framed cameras. P73,000 from Mayer Photo.
  • Pentax K-5 DSLR With 18-55 WR Lens Kit: The 16-megapixel K-5 is Pentax’s semi-professional 1.5x crop DSLR with 11-point autofocus, 7 Frames Per Second shooting rate, 1080p high-definition video, sturdy weather-sealed body and built-in Shake Reduction (any lens attached to it becomes image-stabilized to reduce blur). The included weather-resistant kit lens means that one can immediately go shooting in harsh weather conditions, straight out of the box. As with many current Pentax DSLRs, this one is proudly made in the Philippines. A great upgrade for those who use lesser Pentax models, and those who need to shoot in adverse weather conditions. P87,990 from CameraHaus Megamall.
  • Nikon D7000 DSLR Body Only: Nikon’s latest DX-format (1.5x crop) DSLR model as of this writing, the 16-megapixel D7000 has 6 Frames Per Second Shooting, 39-point autofocus, high-definition video. Positioned above the D90 and below the D300S in the Nikon DSLR line-up. Very good upgrade for those moving up from other Nikon models and have at least one Nikon F-mount lens.  P71,990 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Nikon D700 DSLR Body: Nikon’s most affordable full-frame (FX) DSLR. Full-frame sensors have significant advantages over the crop sensors, such as better image quality at high ISO settings, bright big viewfinder. This model has very fast autofocus and very good high ISO performance (for low-light shooting). Very good upgrade for those using Nikon DX-format (1.5x crop) cameras and want to go full-frame. P100,000 from Mayer.
Where To Buy the Stuff Above:
  • Aperture Trading: 5th Flr., Prosperity Bldg., 395 Banaue St., Quezon City Tel: 732-8991
  • CameraHaus Megamall: 5/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • Filters Exchange: Mezzanine-B, 632 Shaw Blvd, Mandaluyong City Tel: 534-9879
  • Fujifilm Digital Imaging: Basement Level,  SM Megamall Building A, Mandaluyong City
  • JT Photoworld: 1082 Pasong Tamo St., Makati City Tel: 8972561
  • Mayer Photo: 111, 113, 115 C. Palanca St., Quiapo, Manila Tel: 733-7598, 733-7722
  • Pixel Pro Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • Silicon Valley Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • SM Appliance Center: Anywhere there’s an SM mall.
  • Sony Shop (Avid) Megamall: 5/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City

Want something less expensive? Check out Part One of this guide!

Still have money left? A lot of it? Check out what you can get for more than P100,001 and above in Part Three of this guide, watch out for it!

A few things to note:

This isn’t about saying that these are the best or only photography stuff out there, but about giving an idea of what’s out there from different shops, given a set price range. Given similar products with with different prices, it’s usually a “you-get-what-you-pay-for” condition when buying photography-related products. Do more research on the stuff you want, there are a lot of reviews out there on the web.

I’m only limiting the list to products from stores that I have personal experience with, and have actually shopped at.

Prices are for cash basis and are subject to change by their respective suppliers. Prices of mall-based stores may be higher by around 10% up, and is typically consistent with prices in their branches in other malls; one is basically paying for the convenience.

Prices here aren’t necessary the lowest, and are listed at MSRP as far as I know. Many items in this list are also under promo and may have further discounts or freebies so don’t be afraid to ask for them. Also ask about, and be clear, about warranty coverage (e.g. Canon 3-year warranty, CDSC 2-year warranty, or just “shop warranty”) and service centers, as these will help prevent possible misunderstandings should your purchase breakdown in the future.

Have any other gift suggestions? Put it in the comment box below!

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Less than a couple of weeks to go, and you still don’t have anything for the favorite photographer(s) in your life?

The Learning Lensman comes to your assistance! Here are a few last-minute suggestions for photography-related things that can be given as gifts (to others or to yourself!) , depending on budget (links provided for more information or pictures).

I’ve gone around and have come up with a list of stuff available from the shops here in Metro Manila. This is a list that’s meant for those who aren’t really familiar with photography, but would like to know what’s there to buy out there. Several items here I’ve used myself, or used a similar one, so they’re what I would actually use or at least consider.

Without further ado, here they are:

P500 and Below:
  • Sanyo Eneloop AA Battery: Comes pre-charged and can be used more times than your typical NiMH rechargeable batteries. Very useful for photographers who use an external flash or a camera that uses AA batteries. P100 each from Watson Photo.
  • LVSHI UV Filter (52mm or 58mm): Offers the 18-55mm kit lens or 50mm f/1.8 lens some protection against scratches and smudges to the lens’ front element. Good for those who have just bought a DSLR and don’t have a filter yet. P200 from Filters Exchange (either 52mm or 58mm).
  • Lenspen LP-1: This is the original Lenspen (not the cheap copycat). Very useful for cleaning DSLRs lenses. P350 from Filters Exchange.
  • Petal Lens Hood: Prevents unwanted light from getting into your lens, and protects the exposed glass part against bumps or knocks. Also makes a lens look cooler. For Canon or Nikon, P450 up from Filters Exchange.
  • Mini Tripod: Holds up a compact point-and-shoot camera. Some may even hold up a light DSLR and lens combination. Very portable and can be carried anywhere in a pocket. Ideal for photographers want to take long exposures with their compacts, or those who want to be in the pictures they take. P450 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
P501 to P1,000
  • Giottos Rocket Air Blower: Bulb-shaped blower to blow away dust from the lens, and can also be used for cleaning loose dust off a DSLR sensor. With fins at the bottom, handy for making it stand upright. Should be in every photographer’s kit. This and the above-mentioned Lenspen make a great cleaning kit. P650 from Filters Exchange.
  • JJC HS Series Handstrap: Strap that goes around the right hand, improving one’s grip on a bulky camera. Useful for those who have small hands, or need better grip on a large camera. P580 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Transcend 4GB SDHC Memory Card: High-capacity memory card for cameras using SD cards as storage. Everyone can use an extra one. P930 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Marumi DHG UV Filter (52mm): A UV filter with special coating on its glass element to help minimize distracting flare and ghosting (evident in cheaper filters without coating). Also provides additional protection to the 18-55mm kit lens’ front element. P1,000 from Filters Exchange.
P1,001 to P2,500
  • OP/TECH USA Pro Loop Neckstrap: A durable neckstrap with stretchy neoprene part that makes a DSLR feel lighter around the neck. A nice upgrade from the neckstrap that comes with a DSLR. P1,350 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Kata DP-407 Digital Pouch. A tough protective carrying case designed for point-and-shoot compact digital cameras. Ribbed internal structure puts it above the usual pouches. P1400 from Infomaxx Megamall.
  • Sanyo Eneloop AA Batteries (4 pcs) + Quick Charger: The goodness of Eneloop batteries plus a handy charger that can charge them fast. P1800 from Filters Exchange.
  • Canon Pixma iP2770 Printer: Inkjet printer with 4800 x 1200 dpi print resolution, Chromalife 100+ long-lasting inks and fast printing speed. Ideal for printing photos at home, from 4″x 6″ to A4 size. P2050 from Silicon Valley Megamall.
  • Sandisk Extreme 4GB 200x SDHC Memory Card: High-capacity SD card that is very fast in data transfer. Ideal for those who shoot high-definition video with their cameras. P2100 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
P2,500 to P5,000
  • Fujifilm Instax Mini 7s: A funky film camera that immediately puts out a credit card-sized full color print. For fun-loving photographers who want instant gratification. P2,950 from Fujifilm Digital Imaging Megamall. Pack of 20 Instax Mini film P765.
  • Western Digital Ultraportable 320GB External USB Hard Disk: External storage that attaches to a PC via USB cable. Photographers need all the storage they can get, so this will be very much welcome. P2,995 from SM Appliance Center.
  • Benro A-500EX Tripod with Ballhead: Very good value tripod, will hold entry-level DSLRs, lens and flash. P3,900 at Abacus.
  • Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens: A very popular lens because it has a big maximume aperture (lens opening) that allows shooters to shoot in low light and have a really blurred background to make the subject pop out. Very sharp too, and you can use it with autofocus on all Canon EOS bodies. Good for those who like shooting portraits. Best of all is the price. P4,000 from Mayer Photo.
  • Sandisk Extreme 16GB (60MB/Sec) Compact Flash Card: For photographers who have DSLRs that use Compact Flash (CF) cards, usually those who have higher-end cameras. This one is ideal for those who have DSLRs that can record videos. P4,800 from Mayer Photo.
  • Lowepro Fastpack 250 Backpack: A lightweight backpack that can carry a DSLR with lens, an extra lens, a flash, and a 15.4″ notebook computer. Ideal for a photographer on the go. P4,885 from Pixel Pro Megamall.
  • Canon Powershot A490 Compact Digital Camera: 10-megapixel entry-level point-and-shoot camera with 3.3x zoom range, takes excellent pictures for the price. P4,950 SM from Department Store.
  • Basic Photography Workshop: Learn the basics of photography from shooting to printing with veteran commercial photographer, photography instructor and Canon Brand Ambassador Jo Avila. An excellent gift for those who are new to DSLR cameras and want to maximize its usage. Users of all DSLR camera brands welcome. P5,000 for weeknight sessions from Jo Avila Photography (other schedules available).
P5,001 to P10,000
  • Spider Holster: A different way of carrying a camera without a strap. Screw a plate on the bottom of the camera, wear the belt, clip the plate onto a heavy-duty slot on the belt. Camera hangs securely from the clip, ready to be drawn and shot quickly. P5,300 from Aperture Trading.
  • Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D Lens: Similar in purpose to the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens mentioned above, but for Nikon. The catch is that it won’t autofocus in Nikon bodies that don’t have a motor to drive the lens’ autofocus. P5,700 from Mayer Photo.
  • Wacom Bamboo Pen and Touch 4″ x 6″: A USB-connected tablet that allows a user to use a pen to control the mouse pointer with precision. Finger gestures can also be used to control your desktop and applications, providing a similar experience to laptop trackpads that have multi-touch enabled. Very ideal for those who use Adobe Photoshop or a similar application to post-process their pics a lot. P6,390 from Villman Megamall.
  • Canon Pixma iP4760 Printer: A premium high-performance desktop inkjet printer with 9600 x 2400 dpi print resolution and 5 ChromaLife100+ inks in individual cartridges. Great for printing high-quality 4R to A4 size prints quickly. P6,995 from Silicon Valley Megamall
  • Samsung PL101 Dual Display Compact Digital Camera: 12-megapixel compact digital camera with dual displays, a 2.7″ LCD display at the back, and a 1.5″ LCD display beside the lens, so one can take easily take a self-portrait. The camera’s bottom is also angled in such a way that the lens points upwards towards the face, when set on a table. For those who love self-portraits. P9,990 from SM Appliance Center.
  • Polaroid PoGo Instant Digital Camera: The maker of the world’s most popular instant camera is back with a 5-megapixel digital camera that has a built-in printer. Aside from the instant 2″ x 3″ color prints using Zero-Ink technology, the PoGo also has an SD card slot to allow saving of pictures taken, unlike instant film cameras. For those who want instant prints, yet want a digital copy to be saved. P9,995 from SM Department Store.
  • GE X5 Digital Camera: A very interesting 14-megapixel superzoom digital camera with 15x optical zoom range, full manual controls, image stabilization in a small bridge camera (DSLR-like) form factor at a very reasonable price. Not quite in the same league as the more expensive superzooms from the Japanese manufacturers, but neither is the price. This is a great camera for photographers on a tight budget, a walk-around alternative to a DSLR, or travellers who want something really compact but also want flexibility and control. P9,995 from SM Department Store, with free 4GB SD card, rechargeable AA batteries and charger.
Where To Buy the Stuff Above:
  • Abacus Computer: Unit V-350, 3/F V-Mall, Greenhills Shopping Center Ortigas Avenue San Juan City Tel: 727 3172
  • Aperture Trading: 5th Flr., Prosperity Bldg., 395 Banaue St., Quezon City Tel: 732-8991
  • Filters Exchange: Mezzanine-B, 632 Shaw Blvd, Mandaluyong City Tel: 534-9879
  • Fujifilm Digital Imaging: Basement Level,  SM Megamall Building A, Mandaluyong City
  • Infomaxx Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • Jo Avila Photography: Unit 114, Gold Building, 15 Annapolis street, Greenhills, San Juan City Tel: Mobile (917) 530-5133
  • Mayer Photo: 111, 113, 115 C. Palanca St., Quiapo, Manila Tel: 733-7598, 733-7722
  • Pixel Pro Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • Silicon Valley Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • SM Appliance Center: Anywhere there’s an SM mall.
  • SM Department Store: Anywhere there’s an SM mall.
  • Villman Computers Megamall: Cyberzone, 4/F SM Megamall Building B, Mandaluyong City
  • Watson Photo (Hidalgo): 312 P. Gomez St., Quiapo, Manila Tel: 733-7697

Want to spend more? Check out Part II of this Gift Guide! :)

A few things to note:

This isn’t about saying that these are the best or only photography stuff out there, but about giving an idea of what’s out there from different shops, given a set price range. Given similar products with with different prices, it’s usually a “you-get-what-you-pay-for” condition when buying photography-related products.

I’m only limiting the list to products from stores that I have personal experience with, and have actually shopped at.

Prices are for cash basis and are subject to change by their respective suppliers. Prices of mall-based stores may be higher by around 10% up, and is typically consistent with prices in their branches in other malls; one is basically paying for the convenience.

Prices here aren’t necessary the lowest, and are listed at MSRP as far as I know. Many items in this list are also under promo and may have further discounts or freebies so don’t be afraid to ask for them. No harm in asking.

Have any other gift suggestions? Put it in the comment box below!

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Yashica Electro 35

It's a handsome camera

The Yashica Electro 35 is a 35mm film rangefinder camera that was released in 1966. Its name refers to its then-innovative shutter mechanism, which used an electromagnet to control the shutter speed. Able to automatically compute for correct exposure via Aperture Priority and armed with a fast 45mm f/1.7 Yashinon DX manual focus lens, the Electro 35 was very popular in its day.

Today, there are still a lot of Yashica Electro 35 (and its successors, the G, GS and GSN) cameras available. They’re already considered vintage cameras but many of them are either still in working order, or easily restored. They will still take great pictures. The problem lies in its reliance on electric power to function, as the 5.6V battery it was designed to use has been long out of production because of mercury content.

The good news is that the modern 6V batteries available in the market today can power the Electro 35. The bad news is that none of them fits the camera’s battery compartment. Yashica-Guy has an adapter that will let one easily use a modern battery in an Electro 35. Unfortunately, I don’t have ready access to that.

Yashica Electro 35 and 4LR44 Battery

Found! The Yashica Electro 35 and 4LR44 Battery

I had my Electro 35 restored at Columbia Photo in Cubao, and the technician showed me a locally-available battery that I could use with the camera. It was a GP-brand 6V 4LR44 battery A.K.A 476A, A544, PX28A, V4034PX (essentially four 1.5V LR44 button batteries stacked up and packaged into a single unit), and I was told that it could be adapted for use.

This battery proved to be quite elusive. The hardware stores didn’t have it, and neither did the battery specialty shops I went to. After a few months of fruitless searching, I found a mall-based watch shop that carried the GP 4LR44! It was also pretty funny that the store people didn’t seem to know why they stocked the battery and they even asked me what I was going to use it for.

As mentioned above the 4LR44 does not really fit the battery compartment of the Electro 35 and will require some adapting to do so. The 4LR44 is smaller than the compartment in both height and width. Thus, we need to ensure that:

A. The battery should be “widened” to keep it at the center of the compartment and

B. The battery should be made “taller” so that it will be in contact with the positive and negative terminals in the compartment.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Get some cardboard (the battery packaging’s cardboard backing is good for this), scissors, tape and aluminum foil

Yashica Electro 35 Battery Replacement Tools

What you'll need.

2. Cut the cardboard into strips as wide as the battery is tall.

3. Wrap the cardboard strips around the battery, starting with one layer. Secure with tape.

Yashica Electro 35 Battery Retrofit

Mmm... battery wrap.

4. Do a test fit in the camera compartment and add additional layer(s) as needed. Around two layers thick was enough in this case. Be careful not to put too many layers as this can result in too tight a fit and prevent you from removing the battery from the compartment. You should now have a battery that’s less prone to moving around in the compartment, yet can slip out easily from the compartment.

Yashica Electro 35 Battery Replacement

In the wrapped 4LR44 goes

5. Cut strips of aluminum foil and fold them into squares that will fit the round hole of the battery compartment. Flatten them thoroughly so that the folded layers are as pressed to each other as possible. This is to ensure that electricity can pass through the layers, from the battery to the positive terminal in the compartment. You may end up folding several strips; I used a 6-inch length’s worth of standard kitchen aluminum foil.

6. Insert the battery, with the battery’s bottom towards the spring inside the compartment (battery top pointing outwards).

7. Insert the folded strips of aluminum, stacking them up until you almost fill the compartment. The aim is to ensure that there will be enough contact between the battery and the positive terminal in the battery compartment cover, without overdoing it. The cover should screw on back into the compartment without too much effort.

Yashica Electro 35 Battery Retrofit

Aluminum foil strips folded into squares and stacked on top of the battery.

8. Press the “Battery Check” button at the back of the Electro 35. If you did the steps above correctly, you will be rewarded with a glowing green light, and the red and yellow lights on top of the camera will now light up when you half-press the shutter button.

Yashica Electro 35 Battery Check

All Systems Go!

This is by no means the most elegant solution, but it serves the purpose and can easily be done with household materials.

This procedure should also work with succeeding Yashica Electro 35 variants such as the G, GS and GSN. This might also work with other 6V battery or equivalents (stacked LR44 button type batteries and taped together for instance), just vary the amount of cardboard layers and aluminum foil.

Yashica Electro 35 Lights

Exposure indicators are on, another film camera is resurrected into the digital world! :)

(Apologies for some of the blurry pics, not enough light and shaky hands.)

What’s your experience with reviving old cameras? Let’s hear your stories, feel free to comment below!

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Filters at Filters Exchange

Filters Exchange's best-known products

Filters Exchange was founded in early 2008 and started out by carrying Hoya camera filters. Since then it has has made a name for itself in the Philippine photography scene as a specialist in camera filters. The company now offers a dizzying array of filters for photographers who want a special look for their photos.

Most people, including myself, know Filters Exchange as an online presence, with a website and a dedicated sub-forum in Pinoy Photography. So when Rolly Magpayo invited me to join him and several other photographers on a visit to Filters Exchange’s shop, I just had to go.

The store is very accessible via public transportation. It’s along Shaw Boulevard in Mandaluyong City, and is within walking distance of EDSA and the Shaw MRT station. At the address, one has to go up a flight of stairs. Filters Exchange is behind a nondescript door on the second floor.

Inside Filters Exchange

Customers trying out stuff at Filters Exchange.

Filters Exchange is run by Joseph Leh, well-known in the local forums as “lehboy”. The day for a visit was a holiday, but Mr. Leh opened the doors to accommodate us on our after-lunch visit. The store size is typical of a local camera shop, with display cabinets and shelves along the length of the room. There’s also a small couch for people to sit on while they wait for their photographer companions to finish buying stuff.

The wide variety of filters is expected: Neutral Density (ND), Graduated Neutral Density (GND), Reversed ND graduated filters, Circular Polarizing Filter (CPL), etc. These filters are available in a variety of sizes and strengths, and quality ranging from the affordable China-made ones to the expensive Singh Ray variable ones.

Benro Tripods at Filters Exchange

These aren't filters: Benro tripods are among the accessories available.

What is not expected are the non-filter products: Benro tripods and bags, Phottix battery grips, Lumiquest light modifiers, flash stands, original Canon and Nikon accessories, Samyang lenses, OP/TECH straps, Sanyo Eneloop batteries, and Yongnuo and Nissin brand external flash guns. Just looking at their online product catalog won’t give one the idea of how many products Filters Exchange actually has; you’d have to go to their shop, look at the merchandise, touch the merchandise (if you break it, you pay for it, though).

Aside from selling filters and other accessories, Filters Exchange also offers infrared (IR) conversions for those who want their cameras to take infrared photographs all the time. You just have to select which particular IR “look” you want, send in your camera and a downpayment, and wait for it to be returned after conversion (the conversion is permanent, so unless you want to take IR photos for the rest of the cameras life, have the conversion done on a spare camera -LL).

Infrared Photos from Filters Exchange IR Cameras

Want to take unusual photos like these? Look into Filters Exchange's Infrared Filters or Camera Conversions (Picture used with Filters-Exchange's permission)

There are so many desirable accessories that I’d advise you not to bring cash on your first visit. You’ll probably have to leave your credit cards at home too, since Filters Exchange also accepts credit card transactions. I did both, so was spared the experience of coming home with an empty wallet and a bag of camera accessories.

If you’re looking for an accessible shop for camera filters and accessories in the city, Filters Exchange is a great place to head to.

Visit them at:

Mezzanine-B 20th Century Building

632 Shaw Boulevard

Mandaluyong City, Philippines

Phone: (+632) 534 9879

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Arca-Swiss Quick Release System

The Arca-Swiss style Quick Release system: A QR Plate held by the jaws of a QR clamp on a ballhead.

A quick-release plate (or QR plate) is the part of a camera tripod that is directly attached to the bottom of the camera. It allows the camera to be quickly attached to, and removed from, a tripod.The QR plate is simply a piece of metal or plastic screwed into the bottom of the camera and will have rubber or cork-like pads on top to grip the bottom of the camera.  Many tripods come with a QR plate of some sort, and only differ in the way that the QR actually attaches to the tripod itself.

The QR plate included in most, if not all, tripod or tripod head (e.g. ballhead, geared, etc.) packages are usually just have a flat top. This is because there is no way for the manufacturer to know what their buyers will be putting on top of their QR plates. In most cases sticking with the QR plate that came with a tripod or head will be enough for most people. Even the more economical tripods will have a QR plate that can hold the average compact camera with no problems.

Universal Quick Release plate

A universal quick-release plate can be misaligned.

The issue with these one-size-fits-all-cameras approach to QR plates is that because it’s has a flat surface, it is prone to misalignment whether during attachment, or if the camera is accidentally nudged with enough force.

This can become quite problematic when a camera is used in portrait mode (camera in vertical position). A DSLR position on its side with a relatively heavy lens attached to it will start pointing downwards due to gravity. This will happen even if you have a very sturdy tripod and a heavy-duty head that can handle twice the weight of your camera equipment: the weakness here now lies with the QR plate since it’s not able to hold the camera well. One can screw the QR plate into the camera more tightly, but can run the risk of over-tightening and damaging the screw threads.

Misaligned camera

Gravity is too much for the poor universal QR plate.

I use a Benro tripod coupled with a Benro KB-0 ballhead. The QR plate that came with it is alright for most of my purposes, but when I use heavier gear like a gripped 40D and 24-70 lens in portrait mode, the camera tends to point down over the course of a shoot.  When I recently acquired a used Canon 1Ds Mark II (reviewed here), I knew that the existing QR wouldn’t be able to hold this heavier DSLR body.

A solution to this issue is a QR plate that is designed specifically for one’s camera. Such a QR plate would be designed to match the contour of a given camera’s bottom. Because of this “fit-like-a-glove” approach, this kind of QR plate ensures that the camera is not going to twist out of alignment.

It was just as well that a compatible QR plate showed up on the photography buy-and-sell section of the PiPho forums. It was actually an L-Plate from a company called Really Right Stuff (RRS), and it was packaged for sale with a 1D Mk IIN. I asked the seller if he was willing to sell the L-plate separately from the camera, and he agreed. He also gave a very good price for it too. He shipped it the same day that I sent payment, and I received it a couple of days later.

Wait a minute. We were talking about QR plates, so what’s this business about L-plates?

What’s an L-Plate?
Universal QR plate and L-Plate

My stock universal QR plate (Left) and the RRS B57L L-plate (R)

Simply put, an L-plate or L-Bracket as it’s also called, is basically two QR plates stuck together in an L-shape. The bottom horizontal part of the “L” screws on to the bottom of a camera, like a conventional QR plate. The vertical part of the “L” goes up along the side of the camera, and it allows the camera to be mounted on its side on top of a tripod head (demonstrated later in this article).

The L-plate that I acquired is an RRS B57L. It will fit the Canon EOS 1D and 1Ds models up their respective Mark II versions. The 1D and 1Ds Mk III and above will require a different L-Plate. The B57L feels really solid, not surprising as it’s precision-machined from high-quality solid billet tempered aluminum. Its black anodized surface is not only pleasing to the touch, but it also protects the metal underneath from corrosion. The L-plate I received had a few scratches, but they looked like normal wear-and-tear and I don’t mind them considering the price I paid for it.

RRS B57 L Plate on a 1Ds Mk II

RRS B57 L Plate on a 1Ds Mk II

Attaching the L-plate is easy, just screw it into the bottom of the camera with the vertical part of the plate snug against the side of the camera. The B57L requires a hex/Allen wrench for its screw. The seller wasn’t able to send me the wrench included with the plate, but I was able to use a standard one that I had bought from a hardware store long ago.

Once attached, the solid-feeling L-plate compliments the rock-like construction of my 1Ds Mk II. From an aesthetics point of view it also makes the already-imposing 1Ds Mk II even meaner, similar to putting bull bars on a pickup truck or 4WD vehicle. It simply looks the business.

However, I didn’t buy the RRS L-plate just for looks, I bought it to help hold the 1Ds Mk II and a heavy standard zoom lens steady on a tripod. The B57L, like all plates from RRS, conforms to the Arca-Swiss standard for quick-release plates and quick-release clamps (the QR clamp is the part of the tripod that holds the QR plate.

How Do You Use It?
Sliding the L-plate into the ballhead's clamp.

Sliding the L-plate into the ballhead's clamp.

To use the a QR or L-Plate with your tripod, just slide the rail under the plate into the clamp and ensure that it’s captured by the jaws of the clamp. Center the camera using the guide marks on the plate and clamp. Tighten the clamp by using a knob or lever, depending on what kind of clamp you have.

Once the plate is secured, you can position the camera by moving the ballhead. A long plate like the RRS L-plate will also allow the camera to be repositioned sideways by sliding it few inches without having to move the tripod.

The L-plate is an improvement over a bottom-only plate because it also has a vertical rail. The vertical rail runs up along the side of the camera. When you want to use the camera sideways, you just slide the bottom rail out of the clamp, turn the camera on its side, then slide the vertical rail into the tripod clamp. This allows one to quickly change a camera between horizontal and vertical orientations quickly on a tripod, and there is no need to screw and unscrew anything.

Camera with RRS B57L Plate in horizontal and vertical position

A camera with an L-Plate can be easily switched between horizontal and vertical positions.

What’s more important, using a camera in portrait orientation with an L-plate allows the camera’s mass to be directly on top of the tripod, instead of hanging out to one side of the ballhead. Why is this important? First of all, having your camera directly on top of your tripod, and not hanging to one side, means that you can take full advantage of the stability and vibration damping of a tripod. This will result in sharper pictures. Secondly, having a heavy camera directly on top of a tripod is more difficult to accidentally tip over than a heavy camera hanging off-kilter to a side.

The RRS L-plates are designed in practicality in mind. They are designed with practicality in mind. For instance, the B57L plate is designed to allow easy access to the side of the camera covered by the vertical part of the plate.

RRS B57 L Plate Access

The battery can be slid out and cables can be connected without removing the L-plate

There is an opening on the corner of the L-plate through which you can replace the 1D Mk II’s battery or use a DC coupler while the L-plate is in place. The vertical part of the plate is also offset a bit to the rear, to provide enough clearance for cable connections to the side of the camera, such as sync cord or USB cable connections.

Really Right Stuff makes L-plates and conventional bottom-only plates for Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Sony and Pentax cameras, whether DSLRs or point-and-shoots. They also make other product like plates for lenses that have a tripod foot. It’s very likely that they have a plate that can be used for your camera.

The Catch

The L-plate is not without disadvantages. For one, it adds to the bulk of the camera. It adds around 1/3 of an inch to the height and width of the camera, which could be an issue if your camera is already a snug fit in your bag. The L-plate, while already light, will still add weight to your camera setup, and that’s not really a good thing if your gear is already heavy to begin with and you have to lug it around all day. It will also increase the vertical grip’s girth which may make it unsuitable for people with small hands.

RRS B57L Plate not immediately compatible with Benro clamp

The RRS B57L when used with an unmodified Benro KB-0 ballhead. The locking pin of the clamp prevents the plate from sliding completely through. I had to modify the clamp so that the L-plate could be centered properly.

Another issue would be compatibility. While the Arca-Swiss standard for quick-release systems (plates and clamps) is pretty popular, it’s usually associated with better-made tripods and ballheads; you’ll probably won’t see the Arca-Swiss system on really cheap stuff. And it a manufacturer does use the Arca-Swiss standard, they might have interpreted it a bit differently. For example, the B57L wouldn’t slide in completely into the Arca-Swiss-styled QR clamp of my Benro ballhead, and I had to modify the ballhead to make them fit together (I have posted about the modification in another post.). Popular tripod/ballhead manufacturers like Manfrotto, Bogen and Gitzo don’t use the Arca-Swiss system and use their own proprietary QR systems instead.

And then there’s the cost.

A brand new L-plate from RRS can cost upwards of US$140, and a brand new B57L would’ve set me back US$183. Putting that in perspective, one can buy two units of Canon’s 50mm f/1.8 lens. The bottom-only QR plates from RRS cost US$55 each. And that’s not counting shipping from the US. The pricing of well-engineered model-specific plates will deter most photographers from buying one.

Should you get one?

If you use a tripod a lot and want to have your heavy camera setup as stable as possible, then getting a model-specific QR plate in addition to a good tripod and head will make sense. If you want to have more stability when using your camera in portrait/vertical position and added convenience, then you can consider an L-Plate. If you don’t use a tripod much, then it’s not really advisable. Not unless you’re willing to spend that much money to protect 1 or 2 sides of your camera, or make it look nicer.

If you think you want one, and see a plate compatible with your camera up for sale at a very good price, buy it ASAP! I rarely see RRS stuff for sale here and snapped up the first one that showed up.

If you’re able to get an RRS plate for your camera, then rest assured that whatever model it is, it will have the same solid construction, functionality and convenience as the one that the B57L gives me.

Canon 1Ds Mk II  and RRS B57 L Plate Side View

Camera with L-plate in portrait orientation.

Do you use a camera model-specific quick-release plate from RRS or another manufacturer? How do you like them? Have your say in the comment box below!

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Canon News and Sports Photography SeminarCanon Marketing Philippines held another session of their News and Sports Photography seminar last Sunday, 5th September, 2010. It was the third iteration of their seminar series, with european pressphoto agency Chief Photographer Dennis M. Sabangan reprising his role as the speaker.

I was informed of this event only a day before, and only because the event was moved back from it’s scheduled date Saturday 4th September to the next day. It was also a surprise to know that Canon had another one of these seminars, and yet it was not announced in the usual places (Facebook or the local photography forums). A fellow attendee told me that it was actually advertised, as evidenced by a graphic announcement, but in another forum (bird-watching forum, if I recall correctly). I suppose that Canon was targeting another audience this time, those who use their pro-level supertelephoto lenses (300mm and above).

Venue at the SM Megamall

This time, the seminar was held at one of the conference rooms at SM Megamall. I had previously attended the second seminar and saw that the new venue was an improvement over the last one. For one thing, the previous event held at SM City North EDSA was held in an empty space inside the mall. We weren’t enclosed, so we could hear the sound and music of another event. A floor-to-ceiling wrap-around window let in a lot of sunlight, so we had a hard time seeing what was being projected on screen. The SM Megamall event in a conference hall with its subdued lighting and walls meant that we had no problems hearing and seeing.

I had expected that I’d be hearing and seeing the same thing again, since this was supposed to be the same seminar with a different venue and audience. That expectation turned out to be right, but there was actually more. I was correct in that parts of the talk and the photos shown on-screen were things that I had already heard and saw last time. However, this time, Mr. Sabangan’s lecture on photojournalism was made in the context of the recent hostage-taking at the Quirino Grandstand.

Veteran Photojournalist Dennis Sabangan lectures

With this unfortunate incident still fresh in everyone’s minds, the context made for a very fascinating and relevent talk. Mr. Sabangan walked us through how he and the european pressphoto agency team covered the incident from the start to finish. He talked about the gear and lenses they used, the angles they took, the timing, and the things they photographed from the start of the crisis to the aftermath. Mr. Sabangan also discussed the ethics of photojournalism, especially when one has to deal with death. Finally, he showed us the resulting photographs, and the foreign publications in which his hostage drama photographs appeared (one of the magazines is a major-major international one).

Mr. Sabangan Chooses Submitted Pictures

Mr. Sabangan Chooses Submitted Pictures. To his left is Antonni Cuesta of Canon's pro gear group.

The live critique session followed the lecture. Again, participants were asked to submit two (2) news- or sports- related pictures before the event. These pictures would be critiqued onstage by Mr. Sabangan. Just like last time, there were humorous one-liners (fun for the most of the audience, sometimes not-so-fun for those that don’t meet his standards), but the important thing was that Mr. Sabangan actually explained how each submitted picture could be improved. I don’t think any picture went through him unscathed, not even those pictures that seem to have been shot by pros with really long lenses. One is virtually guaranteed to learn something just by listening to the critique. At the end of the critique session, he picked what he thought were the 3 best pictures, and each of the the owners of those pictures would get a popular lens mug from Canon (there was a no-show, no-prize policy. In case the owner isn’t present, the mugs are raffled off to the attendees).

The seminar is a way for Canon to promote its photography-related products. In fact, the product samples on show in these seminar series are geared towards photography professionals. In addition to demo units of their 1000D, 550D, 7D and 1D Mk IV DSLR camera bodies, Canon’s best and most expensive supertelephoto lenses were also on hand for people to look at, and handle. It’s really something to be able to hold their 300mm, 400mm, 600mm and even 800mm lenses, which can cost as much as a car.

Canon's Supertelephotos from L-R: 800mm f/5.6L IS, 600mm f/4L IS, 400mm f/2.8L IS, 300mm f/2.8L IS

Canon also made one of their multi-function inkjet printers available for seminar attendees who wanted to have prints of their photos. Those who brought CF/SD cards, or USB drives with photograph files could have glossy A4-sized prints. I had a couple printed, and I went home happy with how they turned out.

In summary, this was another great seminar on news and sports photography, and one that even non-professional photography enthusiasts and students can appreciate.

Err... Cheers!

We didn’t go home hungry either. Canon gave every attendee a cold drink and a big doughnut from Starbucks. This was just icing on the cake that was a very good seminar that was worth braving the heavy traffic of a Megamall Sunday.

Good job, Canon Philippines and Dennis M. Sabangan!

For those who missed this one, don’t fret. I was told that they will hold another one next month, and that’s really something to look forward to.

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Canon has announced no less than 5 major release today, 26th August, 2010, rolling out a new DSLR body, 4 pro-grade lenses and upgraded lens extenders. Click the DPReview links below for more information.

The much-awaited 60D arrives with an 18-megapixel sensor, the 7D’s metering system, a smaller body (for an xxD-series camera), and an articulated screen to allow shooting from awkward angles. David Lee Tong has good commentary on this announcement, read it here.

Canon also put out 8 new pieces of glass, including 6 “L” lenses (L for Luxury, the mark of Canon’s pro-grade optics).

The EF 8-15mm f/4L USM is the world’s first fisheye zoom.

EF 8-15mm f/4 Fisheye

EF 8-15mm f/4 Fisheye

The EF 70-300mm f/4-f/5.6L IS USM has another 100mm more compared to the existing telephoto zoom offerings.

EF 70-300mm f/4-f/5.6 L IS USM

EF 70-300mm f/4-f/5.6 L IS USM

The supertelephoto prime lens range received upgrades as signified by the “II” designation: EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 400 f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM, EF 600mm f/4L II IS USM. These new lenses have improved optics, image stabilization and weigh less than the original versions.

EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM

EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM

In addition, Canon has released the 3rd iteration of its teleconverters: the Extender EF 1.4x III and Extender EF 2x III, featuring new lens release mechanisms and new integrated processors.

Extender EF 2x III

Extender EF 2x III

We’ve wondered why Canon was a bit quiet lately. Seems like they wanted to come out with a bang, and they’ve succeeded.

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