Canon EOS 1Ds Mk II and EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS

Potent Combo: The Canon EOS 1Ds Mk II and EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS

Professional-grade DSLR camera bodies have a certain mystique for most photographers. They are supposed to be chock-full of features, have instant-lock autofocus, a bazillion autofocus points, blazingly-fast shooting speed and virtually indestructible. More than any other kind of DSLR, being seen with a pro body in public gives the impression that one is a professional photographer. Their single-digit model names (for Canon and Nikon, anyway) inspires awe in the wielders of lesser models.

As a user of Canon’s 40D and 20D semi-professional cameras, I have also found myself wondering what it’s like to shoot with a pro body. I’ve previously spent a few minutes with a Canon 1Ds Mk III and a Nikon D2x, and even shot them, but was only limited to clicking the shutter and looking at the resulting photographs in the rear LCD display. Those moments didn’t really tell me anything about how one uses a pro body.

A few weeks ago I chanced upon a 1Ds Mark II in very good condition and with a very good price (way way way down from its release price of US$8,000). I couldn’t pass up this chance to evaluate one of Canon’s top DSLR bodies and acquired it. So what’s the fuss about pro bodies? Let’s find out!

There are already several reviews done by photography experts elsewhere on the net: Digital Photography Review, Luminous Landscape, and The-Digital-Picture.com have extensive reviews of the Canon 1Ds Mk II. This post will be about my experience with a pro-level 1Ds Mk II as an amateur who has been using semi-professional level Canon DSLRs for the past three years. And just to be clear, this is an article about a camera that was released late 2004 and has since been replaced by the 1Ds Mk III.

1Ds Mk II with optional L-Plate from Really Right Stuff

1Ds Mk II with optional L-Plate from Really Right Stuff

The first thing that one notices with a 1-series DSLR body is its size and shape. With its integrated vertical grip, the 1Ds Mk II looks like a square with a hump on top when it’s facing one. To many photographers this is a familiar silhouette because consumer- and semipro-level camera have optional vertical battery grips, but one will also notice that the 1Ds Mk II’s vertical grip is part of the body. The 1Ds MkII is about the size of a 40D/30D/20D with a battery grip attached. The hump housing the full-frame glass prism and viewfinder is also noticeably curvier than the ones on DSLRs with built-in flashes.

The weight and build quality are the next thing to be noticed, once it’s picked up and held. The 1Ds Mk II and its big NiMH battery feels significantly heavier than a semipro body with battery grip and two batteries (e.g. Canon 40D or Nikon D90). And it sure does feel like it could survive anything; I wouldn’t be surprised if 1Ds Mk IIs around the world will be keeping cockroaches company in a post-nuclear holocaust world.

To me, the magnesium-alloyed semipro bodies like the 20D and 40D bodies felt more solid than a plastic-covered consumer-level DSLR (these plastic-covered cameras actually have metal frames inside so they’re quite sturdy too), but the 1Ds Mk II felt like it was carved out of solid rock. The 1Ds Mk II’s integrated vertical grip added to the solid feel, primarily because my 40D’s battery grip was the typical screw-on type and had a tendency to loosen while I shot with it.

Canon EOS 1Ds MkII Back

Stiff On-Off switches. To the right of the big control dial is the memory card compartment cover. To open, use the twist lock mechanism to the right of the power switch.

The weather seals around the memory card compartment and battery were made of rubber, and the rubber flaps covering the 1Ds Mk II’s interface ports fit really tight and I had to pry them open. Openings like the card compartment and the battery are secured with a twist-lock mechanism. The 13V NiMH (not Lithium-Ion unfortunately) is big and heavy.  One gets the impression that the 1Ds Mk II can also be used as a deadly weapon in addition to being an excellent photographic tool.

The full-frame sensor means that one can have a large and bright viewfinder. In the case of the 1Ds Mk II, the viewfinder has 100% coverage. This means that what you see in the 1Ds Mk II’s viewfinder is what you’re going to see in your image file. With other DSLRs with less viewfinder coverage (let’s say 98%), the image sensor actually captures a bit more of the scene than what you can see through the viewfinder. The 1Ds Mk II’s viewfinder meter is also on the right side, and not on the bottom as most of us are familiar with.

The 1Ds Mk II also feels like the 20D and 40D that I’m so familiar with: the button layout, the control wheel near the shutter button is there, and there’s a big control dial at the back. So far so good, then one looks for the Mode dial… and it’s not there. Consumer- and semipro-level cameras have a Mode dial on the side of the camera. Also known as the PASM dial, it allows a photographer to choose the shooting mode by turning the knob. The 1Ds Mk II (and other 1-series camera) doesn’t have this.

Canon EOS 1Ds MkII Top Buttons

Three buttons replace the Mode dial found on other DSLRs.

Instead, the 1Ds Mk II has three buttons where the Mode dial’s supposed to be. One of these buttons is the Mode button. To change between Program AE (P), Aperture Priority (Av), Shutter Priority (Tv) and Manual (M) and Bulb (Bulb shooting was considered a shutter speed in excess of 30 seconds in non-1D bodies) modes, I have to press and hold the Mode button with my left hand and select the shooting mode with the shutter control wheel with my right hand.

By comparison, I could change between P, A, S and M modes on my 20D and 40D with a simple twist of the Mode dial. The two-handed (or two-fingered) way of changing the shooting mode on a 1Ds Mk II was just my introduction to the alien world of pro-level bodies.

In fact, I found out that most of the setting changes required simultaneous two-handed operation, usually involving holding a button down while turning the shutter wheel or the control dial at the back, then releasing the button to confirm selection. There’s no “SET” button on the 1Ds Mk II’s rear dial, so confirming a settings change usually means taking your finger off the button that was held down (the 1Ds Mk III now has a “Set” button -LL). This applies to changing AF modes (One Shot/AI Servo), shooting speed (single shot, burst, timer), metering mode (evaluative, partial, spot).

Changing ISO on Canon EOS 1Ds MkII

Changing ISO on the 1Ds Mk II. Grand total: 3 fingers + 2 hands

Want to change ISO? You press and hold the AF and Metering buttons at the same time, then use the shutter control wheel to select the ISO setting you want. Wait. That’s THREE fingers in total. On my 40D, I only have to press the ISO button with my right finger, move that finger to the control wheel half an inch away, dial in the ISO level, then half-press the shutter button to confirm my setting and be ready to shoot. I can even change the ISO without taking my eye off the viewfinder (a dedicated ISO button has been added on the Mk III -LL). This three-finger settings change also applies to changing Bracketing and Drive settings.

Menu navigation also requires holding down the Menu button while scrolling. To zoom in and out while reviewing a shot, one has to hold the Display button while pressing the Zoom In and Zoom Out buttons. The same applies to deleting pictures.

The 1Ds Mk II is also missing the small multi-control joystick (thumbstick?) found in the xx-series of DSLRs like the 20D and 40D. This joystick is used to navigate menus, and scroll vertically/horizontally across a photo being reviewed zoomed-in, and to select AF points. The functionality offered by the joystick is facilitated through the 1Ds MkII’s dials. A bit cumbersome, compared to the joystick (this feature has since been added to the Mk III).

Canon EOS 1Ds MkII Rear View

A busy back. Shown with optional RRS L-Plate

I may sound like I’m complaining, but I’m not. While the one-touch controls in consumer or semiprofessional cameras are admittedly easier to use, they are also easier to change accidentally.

For instance, the protruding Mode dial found on my 40D and all non-1 series bodies can be accidentally turned and set to another mode if it brushes against something, say an errant finger or shoved into a bag. One can pick up a camera and immediately shoot to capture a moment, shoot off a few frames, and find that one has been shooting in the wrong mode.

The controls of the 1D/1Ds were designed for professionals who need to deliver the pictures that count. They can’t afford to have settings changed by accident, their cameras should be ready to shoot with the settings they were left at. That is why most, if not all, settings on the 1Ds Mk II and all other 1-series bodies should be changed deliberately; one has to make a conscious decision and put a bit of effort to change the settings. Aside from the two-handed settings change, the On-Off lever switches are also stiff, and requires quite a bit of pressure from the thumb to change.

This new (to me, anyway) way of doing things isn’t difficult at all, just different. In fact, I believe that users of Canon’s consumer-grade DSLRs (e.g. those without the control dial at the back) will be somewhat familiar with the controls of a 1D-series body. This is because for them to change Aperture setting in M Mode, they have to simultaneously hold a button down with their thumb while their forefinger adjust the dial near the shutter button.

Aside from the tough construction, there are also other improvements found in professional-grade bodies which put them clearly above other models.

Canon EOS 1Ds Mk II Sample JPEG 100% Crop

100% Crop Sample with the 1Ds Mk II & EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS. Autofocus nailed it.

Autofocus performance is one. The 1Ds Mk II in particular, has 45 selectable focusing points available for focusing accuracy and these can be selected in groups. The 1Ds Mk II shares the same autofocus system as the speed-oriented 1D Mk II, with tweaks to make it more appopriate to a full-frame system. AF speed is still reasonably fast compared to today’s models, and the 45 AF points are still above what is available in the current non-1D series cameras. I recently tested the 1Ds Mk II in a shoot, and I find that being able to compose the scene and setting the focusing point exactly where you want it results in better focus accuracy than using the focus, then recompose technique on my 9-AF point 40D.

There’s also a dedicated image quality button at the back, so you can quickly select between RAW and JPEG quality levels without fiddling with a menu. 1D-series bodies also have a secondary LCD information display. This is quite useful because it’s actually easier to look at the back of the camera than having to twist your hands to look at a display on top of the camera. I also like the blue LCD display light instead of the orange one we have on other cameras.

In addition, the 1Ds Mk II has two memory card slots. One for Compact Flash, and another for SD cards. Each 1Ds Mk II also has image filename that starts with a 4-character string that is factory-programmed and unique to it (e.g. “XXXX0001.jpg). This cannot be changed and is also quite useful in quickly identifying which pictures came from the 1Ds Mk II when sorting.

Canon EOS 1Ds MkII Blue LCD

Mmmm... Blue LCD lighting.

The main power switch even has settings for silent mode shooting: When switched to the normal “On” setting, the 1Ds Mk II will not beep (e.g. when it achieves focus lock). This is very useful when discretion is required in a shoot. To turn the beeps on one has to push the power switch up another notch. The first time I got the unit, I was stumped because the camera wasn’t beeping when I turned it on.

For someone who’s used to Canon’s semi-pro cameras, I have to admit that the 1-series of DSLRs is both reassuringly familiar and strange. It’s like an old friend: the grip feels the same, my right finger automatically finds the control wheel by the shutter button and the right thumb, the big control wheel on the back. But the 1Ds Mk II is significantly different in operation compared to the ones I’ve had, and I’m probably not going to be able to change settings on the fly as quickly as I did with my 40D and 20D.

The controls aren’t the only changes I’ll need to adjust to. When I said early on that the 1Ds Mk II was heavier, it’s really heavier. I’ve spent a day lugging around a camera bag with the 1Ds Mk II couple with the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L lens, and I could feel the bag’s shoulder strap digging into my shoulder; the same lens and my 40D with dual batteries in the vertical grip feels lighter.

I’ll need more experience with the camera so that I’ll get used to its operation and heft.

And what better way than to go out and shoot a lot with it?

What’s your experience with a professional-grade DSLR body? I’d like to know more about it, feel free to comment below!

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  19 Responses to “The Pro Experience: A Canon EOS 1Ds Mk II Review”

  1. “For instance, the protruding Mode dial found on my 40D and all non-1 series bodies can be accidentally turned and set to another mode if it brushes against something, say an errant finger or shoved into a bag. One can pick up a camera and immediately shoot to capture a moment, shoot off a few frames, and find that one has been shooting in the wrong mode.”

    - happened to me :D though I was shooting in M but was shooting in AE instead :P

  2. To be honest it’s happened to me only once and only recently. But I’ve had several friends tell me about this happening to them. :)

  3. “For instance, the protruding Mode dial found on my 40D and all non-1 series bodies can be accidentally turned and set to another mode if it brushes against something, say an errant finger or shoved into a bag. One can pick up a camera and immediately shoot to capture a moment, shoot off a few frames, and find that one has been shooting in the wrong mode.”

    -happens to me sooooo many times ‘coz I use a sling instead of a strap so it keeps rubbing on my pants.

  4. @GT maybe a 1Ds MkIII is in your future! :)

  5. Great article, Pat. Very well written and easy to understand. Even for someone like me who probably will not progress beyond point-and-shoot photography.

  6. Thanks for the kind words, Ariel! Several years back I told myself that I wouldn’t go point-and-shoots too. :)

  7. Hello Sir,

    I’m enjoying your blog a lot!

    Just need to know your take on this, Coming from a 400D, I’ve been thinking of upgrading.

    7D or a used 1D Mark II N?

    New technology/Semi pro body or Pro Body?

    Thanks much! More blogs pls! :)

  8. Thanks for dropping by, Choi!

    A 7D is a very advanced camera, with excellent autofocus, weathersealing and very usable high ISO settings. Plus, it has video. It’s around 5 years newer than the 1D Mk II N.

    The 1D Mk II N is built like a tank, has 45 AF points, integrated vertical grip and has a 1.3x sensor (shallower DOF and smaller crop factor).

    Ultimately it depends on what you’ll be shooting most of the time. If you need to shoot high ISO, need longer reach with your lenses, and more megapixels for cropping or printing large prints, a 7D is the way to go. If you shoot mostly in low ISO levels, want a camera that can take abuse, shallower DOF/wider angle of view, and don’t need then to print big (only 8.2 megapixels), a1D Mk II N in very good condition will serve you well.

  9. [...] recently acquired a used Really Right Stuff (RRS) B57L L-plate for my Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II (I also reviewed this L-plate in detail in my previous post here). I’ve been using my old [...]

  10. was searching for a 1Dsmk2 after reading your review. i want one! only if we could get an updated Digic 4 sensor for the older 1D/1Ds bodies. id love to shoot full frame or 1.3crop thats not more than 12megapixels.

  11. @Carlo you mean I didn’t scare you away from getting a Pro body? LOL.

  12. I came across a 1D Mark 2n for a really good price. I have to agree that the interface is quite different compared to the semi-pro and entry level models. I wouldn’t say it’s bad, just different and will take some time to get used to.

    I was also considering a 7D but the 1D would come out cheaper. Aside from video which isn’t important to me, the biggest draw of the 7D for me is the high ISO capability and the croppig headroom brought about by the higher pixel count. However, I ended up with the 1D becuase of price, dual card slots, more focus points, smaller crop factor. Believe it or not, a big plus for me which really became evident after the purchase is how the camera feels in one’s hands. This is where build quality comes in. Very solid. I have battery grips for my other camers but being add-ons, they never really felt solid.

    Maybe some would find this minor but the eyepiece of the 1D is also very nice. The viewfinder of the semi-pro and entry level models tend to be too close to the body (at least for me). I tried using an eyepiece extender but they protruded too much that they became easy to accidentally knock off. The image in the viewfinder seem to become smaller as well. The ones on the pro bodies are just right.

  13. Thanks for sharing your experience with a 1D Mk II N, Paolo! I agree that the eyepiece is very good. It’s also wider by virtue of the bigger viewfinder, and I find it more comfortable. With my 40D, I didn’t really like it that much, and my 20D came with an eyepiece extender that I never used.

  14. I just got my (used) 1Ds Mk II body here in NYC. Really…used, with cosmetic chinks in the corners. I traded in my 40D, and now I’m a proud (but still bumbling) owner of a 1Ds pro body. For those who are worried about its ISO capabilities, I can say: don’t worry. Even my new 7D can’t quite match the 1Ds Mk II’s ISO 1600 at close inspection. As much as I love the focusing on my trusty 7D, I can feel this camera’s auto-focusing to be quite superior and accurate. If you’re worried about the tiny LCD, don’t be (or if it’s really important, then maybe it could be a deal breaker). A friend of mine who owns the same camera had this to say: “The camera focuses accurately enough that all you need from the LCD is the histogram.” I do however “chimp” or zoom in just to check if I nailed the sharpness and focus if in doubt.

    As for the 2-3 finger operation (ISO Change, bracketing, Drive Settings) where you have to press two buttons (from your left hand) then move dial for selection (from your right hand): I was able to reduce this to a thumb + finger operation. I press the buttons by flattening the widest area of my thumb over them (so I actually cover them both)…then I move the dial with my right forefinger. It’s a bit awkward at first, but once you find a comfortable angle to do it, I hope you’ll find that technique as useful as I found it. It actually is easiest for me when I hold the camera in portrait orientation.

    Weight: though it feels more solid than having a 35mm-type (aka prosumer) body + grip, for some reason, it feels a bit more comfortable. It does get heavy though, so having a hand-grip may actually help. Not sure what strap alternatives are available there in the Philippines…but the Kata reflex and the optech straps are cheaper alternatives to BlackRapid products.

    Ok…that’s all I have to share for now for those who may still be following (or just browsing this thread). Hope that’s useful.

    Sir Pat…thanks again!!

  15. Ian, glad to hear you’re liking your camera. It’s really an excellent machine. Funny you mentioned the paint chipping in the corners. It seems to be a common wear area.

    As for ISO, I have shot at two weddings and found that ISO 800 is very usable. ISO1600 shots can benefit from a bit of de-noising, but still good enough. AF is spot-on, and the multiple AF points are critical on full-frame with its shallow DOF.

    As for the two-handed way of changing settings, the Mark II left such an impression that I end up trying to do it on other DSLRs.

    I use my old Tamrac strap with stretchy neoprene. Works well. I’d like to try an Optech one of these days. You’re right about the handstrap. Bought an E-1 handstrap for it and it really helped.

  16. Fun read, Pat. I, too, am using a Pro Body – a 1D MkII. I acquired it in 2008 and I don’t think I will let go of it anytime soon as it serves me well for my needs. Im not a professional photographer that’s why this body is more than enough for me.

    You are right about the controls being hard at first but the learning curve isn’t a killer. Give it a few months and it will be instinctive. Whenever I hold someone’s consumer level camera, I seem to be lost because Im already so used to the 1D. Although its not perfect as the controls have changed already with the newer models (like the ISO button being a dedicated button near the shutter release), it’s still easy to use when you’re used to it already.

    The only drawback for me is the LCD screen which is really obsolete. Other than that, 1D series is like an L glass, once you have it – you can’t go back to anything lesser. The only upgrade I’ll consider soon is a 1D MkIII body and only when I know its a bargain!

  17. Thanks for dropping by, JR! You’re right about the controls being hard at first, and that it will become second nature given enough use. I’ve gotten so used to it in the past two months that I had was trying the two-handed operation all the time with my 40D. :)

    As for the LCD being obsolete, that is true given today’s brilliant LCD displays. But I think the bad LCD actually helps because there will be a lot of times that a pic appears so-so on the 1Ds Mk II, then turns out to be great when seen on a computer. :D

  18. [...] Three months ago, I was able to acquire a used Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II in very good condition. To a hobbyist who as been using semi-professional DSLRs (40D and 20D), the professional-grade 1Ds Mark II was a strange beast, both familiar and strange. I have written about my initial impression of that camera in a previous blog post, you can read it here. [...]

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